When does replacing a part make sense?
It works best for small plastic parts with a clear function that are no longer available on their own. For example:
- clips, hooks and mounting brackets;
- knobs, caps and covers;
- holders, guides and spacers;
- parts of appliances, furniture or tools for which no spare part is available any more.
An original 3D file is not needed. The part is measured and redrawn in CAD, drawing software for technical parts. A part that broke into pieces can also be redrawn, as long as its shape can still be worked out.
Not suitable: parts that come into contact with food, and toys. Those are not printed.
How it works, step by step
- You send photos and a few measurements through the quote form. Measuring not working out? Then you can post the part or drop it off.
- The part is measured and redrawn in CAD.
- You receive a free quote without obligation. You only pay once you agree.
- Once agreed, the part is printed layer by layer (FDM), in the material that suits its use.
The new part does not have to be an exact copy. While redrawing, a weak spot can be improved, for example with a rounded corner or a slightly thicker wall where the original broke, as long as it still fits.
Photos and measurements: what is needed?
Photos with a few measurements are enough to start. These four photos help most:
- an overview of the whole part, straight from the front;
- a close-up of the break, so it shows where and how it broke;
- the part in place, showing what it connects to;
- the part next to a ruler or tape measure, so the size is visible.
Also measure:
- the length, width and height of the part;
- the diameter of each hole and the centre-to-centre distance between holes;
- the mating part: what the part has to fit into or onto.
The mating part is often the most reliable measurement. The broken part may be deformed or missing a piece; the mating part usually is not. A calliper measures most accurately; a ruler gives a first estimate. No calliper? Then you can post the part or drop it off. You receive the address by email after your request.
Which material for the new part?
The material depends on where the part sits and what it has to withstand:
- Indoors, without heat: PLA. Stiff and dimensionally stable, but with a heat resistance (HDT) of 57 °C not suitable for a car or direct sun.
- Outdoors or in the sun: ASA, the most UV-resistant choice, or PETG.
- With heat, such as in a car or near an appliance that gets warm: ASA (100 °C) or ABS (87 °C).
- Flexible, such as a cap, damper or foot: TPU.
Not sure? Describe in your request where the part sits, and the material is chosen to match. All values are on the materials page. More on the choice in the guide filament for outdoor, heat or flexible parts.
Why did the original break?
Plastic parts tend to break in the same places: at a sharp inside corner, a thin wall or around a hole. That is where the force concentrates. Old plastic may also have become brittle from sunlight or heat. A photo of the break often shows which of the two it was.
With a 3D print, direction matters too. A printed part is strongest along its layers and weakest between them. So the way the part lies on the print bed is chosen so that the load does not fall exactly between two layers.
What does it cost?
That mainly depends on the drawing work: a simple bracket is redrawn faster than a part with many curves and holes. After that, the material and print time count. You first receive a free quote and only pay once you agree.
More about replacing a broken part, with a measuring and photo guide and previous projects.